Handmade vs. Industrial Jewelry: What’s the Difference and Why Handmade Jewelry Is Worth More
After almost 3 years of going to handmade markets I can’t help but notice that not everything is quite HANDMADE there. What does that even mean? Handmade….
Artisan in Tunisia introducig me to the details of grass weaving
Here’s what Chatgpt says: “Handmade” means something was made by actual human hands, not spat out of a machine. When something’s handmade, it usually involves skill, time, and a fair amount of swearing at tiny details until it looks just right. Think jewelry, pottery, clothing, furniture-basically anything crafted by a person, not mass-produced in a factory. It often costs more, but that’s because you’re paying for a piece of someone’s efforts.
I gotta say, I agree with it. But what I see in the markets doesn’t always meet the criteria. There’s lots of pieces that are half-handmade or even mass produced. I remember being at a market where there was this nice stand, very sleek, bright with pastel colors and full of silver and gold plated jewelry from Temu/Etsy/Aliexpress/etc. y’all know those pages- and it was full of people. FULL of people, staring, trying on pieces and BUYING. While I was just sitting there without a single person coming my way and doubting my work, my skills, my choices. It didn’t feel good but I learned that not everyone is MY costumer. And that’s fine because there are people that know the difference between handmade and mass produced jewelry and appreciate my work.
So how is this jewelry made that costs 5-10€ and even offers free shipping?
They’re usually made in big batches from cheap alloys with underpaid workers and disregarding environmental issues like massive energy use for smelting, casting, and machining, chemical processing that can pollute water and soil and mining practices that destroy natural habitats.
Industrial casting basically allows mass production of thousands of identical pieces: labor is minimized after the initial setup, production is fast and predictable and costs are kept low by using cheaper metals and thin plating that wears off after a little use. It requires little to no human touch once the mold is ready. Just like fast fashion.
Jewelry pieces after casting
While handmade takes hours and days of work, experimentings, failures, screwed up projects, swears, tears and coffee. I’m not kidding. I had custom orders that I literally cried while making because it just wouldn’t turn out as it should have. It requires persistency and much love. Because why else would someone remake that ring for the fifth time, sacrificing time, materials and money?!
Filing the edges of an earring
Here’s what my process looks like: if I don’t already have an idea of what I want to make ( because I haven’t been in any new places recently to draw inspiration from) I scour the internet for ideas, looking at pictures, videos, other artists, not just jewelry but photography, paintings, ceramics, gardens, clothes, many things until I get inspired by something. ( For a vey long time I couldn’t accept that this is also part of my working hours and I should definitely count it in.) Then I start drawing my ideas, making different versions and choose the ones I like the most. I prepare the stencil which basically means I cut out the drawing of paper and stick it on the brass sheet. Then, my favorite part, I take my handsaw and cut it out. I saw for hours usually, sometimes that’s all I do in a day. Then I take my file and soften the edges, removing all the sharp parts and sand them. I sand each side and all edges. Then I can play: adding texture or painting, patina, changing the shape by bending or hammering or soldering pieces together, setting the stones, clean up and polish. Sounds easy, doesn’t it? Well, it’s not. Oh, did I mention that my pieces are made of scraps that need additional cleaning because brass is very reactive and if it stays in humid places for too long it form stains and patina? I gotta clean that up too. Each piece I make is very much handmade-obviously, thoughtful, kind to the environment and ethical. These are all very important aspects for me and so should be for you.
The reason I wrote this post isn’t to cry about how handmade jewelry is not appreciated at the markets, but to let my current clients know that I’m very grateful to them for supporting me and choosing my creations. And to also let my not (yet!) clients know what’s the difference between the handmade and mass production and hence why prices differ. When you choose handmade jewelry, you’re making a conscious, ethical, and beautiful choice to support independent makers, not faceless corporations, to reduce your environmental footprint and to wear something with a story- not just a product. Each handmade piece connects maker and wearer. It’s personal. It’s lasting. It’s real.
Beginnings
How did my jewelry making journey start?
Today I'm dreaming of the magical place where my jewelry making journey began. The place that's always gonna be the most kind to me. It's a little paradise: Lefkada. Greece has always been in my heart, but after spending a whole year there it has become a second home for me. Its charm, the chill, the carelessness and joy that surrounds everything there. I love it.
It started with a volunteering project in 2018. After the biggest break up of my life, I jumped right into another adventure that not just got me through the pain but also gave a purpose to me and two best friends.
Manel, Sara, Me, Rafal
With my degree in fashion design, I worked for a few different companies before: in a small tailoring studio, in a big factory and also in a repair store. I always knew that something wasn't right, something was missing and I liked to make my own schedule too. As a volunteer I hosted different handicraft workshops, from sewing to crocheting and macrame, I taught many things. Even photography. I really liked creating together with others and it felt good to belong somewhere.
The NGO I was 'working' for had a little workshop where the others made wooden toys. I was mesmerised by the beauty of olive wood and sometimes I would take the leftovers and make earrings in my free time. That's when the idea came: I could be doing this full time. It wasn't really out of nowhere, I've been creating my whole life. I even had a semester of silversmithing course on my previous trip in Turkey. I always had the idea of making jewelry in the back of my mind but I didn’t think I could actually make it. The idea of me becoming a jeweller was very scary. What if nobody likes what I make? What if I’m not good enough?
It was a long way from that thought until Roods became what it is today. In the beginning I wasn't even serious about it but now I can't imagine myself doing anything else. Except maybe travelling... I could definitely imagine that!
So in the end of 2021 my little company was born, officially and with it many boring and repulsive tasks that are related to running a small business. There were many lessons I had to learn and still many to come. This past year was a time of revelation, when I realised that my passion to make jewelry is not just about making jewelry and I had to start looking at it as a business. Which is a very sad thing for me because I would love to just travel and create.
That’s what I’m working towards right now: to build a life that allows me to visit incredible places, let them inspire me and turn my experiences into jewelry that mean something to ME and YOU. For me, jewelry is a way to connect to all of you who support me and I’m very grateful that I can do it full time.
Thank you for your support!
Aruba-land of cactus and jewelry
Aruba-land of cactus and jewelry
Aruba-tera dushi
There’s a small island in the middle of the Caribbean Sea, that’s full of colors and cactus. Aruba. Lots of people know about it because of the song. Yes, The Beach Boys!
Aruba is a special place, the lights are amazing right after sunrise and even thought it’s a small island, there’s lots of things to see, from crystal clear waters to deserts and high cliffs and sometimes you can even find yourself in the set of western movies.
No secret that half of my creations are born from my experiences while travelling but this trip was truly special because it was my first project that was actually all about jewelry. I went to Aruba thanks to Culture Moves Europe, a mobility grant for artists to learn, connect, create and explore. I had an amazing tutor, Gloria (https://www.gloriafiliciana.com/) who moved to Aruba from Argentina, many years ago and now she makes seaglass jewelry that she collects from the shores.
Silver ring with seaglass-made by me in Gloria’s style
I learned a lot from Gloria, not just about working with seaglass but about business and selling, the way she cares about her work, the choices she makes and to see all her efforts that she puts into her business was very inspiring to me. She’s a super nice, easygoing person, I felt like we knew each other for years and I really hope to see her again.
About my project: I wanted to create a small jewelry collection on the concept of water pollution and environmental preservation, very important topics when it comes to Aruba-and the rest of the wold too. Even though the crowded touristic beaches are super nice with crystal clear waters, some other parts of the island are full of trash. My collection is a reminder that we are responsible for our environments, even if we’re on holidays.
The pieces I created with the guidance of Gloria are inspired by Aruba’s gorgeous corals that thanks to the huge amount of tourists visiting all year round, are in danger. The pieces are made of trash that we collected during the project from the beaches and the street. I used soda cans for the base that I covered with papermache I made from packages and boxes and -of course-added seaglass as a touch of preciousness.
It was exciting and challenging in the same time to work with different materials than usually and I won’t switch to papermache jewelry but I definitely had fun creating in such a beautiful environment.
